LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D

October 6th, 2020
LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D Fig. 1 Drain the gearbox oil, then refit & tighten the drain plug & remove the centre tie bar

LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D

October 6th, 2020
LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D Fig. 2 Swing the engine forward to improve access & remove the RH driveshaft centre bearing clamp

LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D

October 6th, 2020
LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D Fig. 3 Unbolt and remove any pipes attached to the gearbox mount

LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D

October 6th, 2020
LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D Fig. 4 Release the A/C hose front bracket

LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D

October 6th, 2020
LuK Clutch Replacement - 2013 Opel Movano 2.3D Fig. 5 Unbolt & remove the CSC, carefully noting the gearbox seal condition
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REPXPERT Alistair Mason, replaces the clutch on a Opel Movano 2.3 D, which had covered more than 140,000 miles. As is the norm with light commercial vehicles, the first job is to check the ramp’s weight capability and how much equipment is in the back of the vehicle.


The Movano has an ‘over gearbox harness’, encased in plastic trunking, which is fiddly to remove, but taking it away provides access to the gearbox bell housing bolts.

Whilst on the floor, disconnect the gear change cables and stow them away safely. Unclip the slave cylinder hose and blank it using an old and modified extension pipe. Disconnect the reverse light switch, then slacken the front road wheel nuts and driveshaft nuts.

Raise the ramp to a convenient height and remove the front wheels. Unclip the ABS lead and brake hoses on both sides of the vehicle. Undo and remove the two lower strut bolts, and carefully swing back the knuckle to release the drive shafts on both sides. Support the knuckle to ensure the hoses and leads aren’t damaged.

Raise the vehicle further and drain the gearbox oil into a suitable receptacle, then refit and tighten the drain plug and remove the centre tie bar (Fig 1).

Swing the engine forward to improve access and remove the RH driveshaft centre bearing clamp (Fig 2) and both driveshafts, unclip and disconnect the cable on the rear of the gearbox support bracket, unbolt the rear bell housing bolts and unclip the drain hose.

With the engine supported from above, remove one of the gearbox support bracket bolts and lower the gearbox and engine slightly. Unbolt and remove any pipes attached to the gearbox mount (Fig 3).

Remove the mount altogether and stow and secure the A/C pipes clear of the gearbox. Cut the cable ties, securing the over gearbox harness lid, ready for removal. Unclip and disconnect the gearbox breather pipe, then remove the two bolts securing the harness box to the gearbox and remove it to allow access to the bell housing bolt,  whilst leaving the harness in situ.

Remove the starter motor bolts and the rest of the bell housing, leaving the two nuts on special studs at the top.

Release the A/C hose front bracket (Fig 4) to allow the pipe to be moved further out of the way. Support the gearbox with a transmission jack and remove the gearbox mounting bracket then the remaining bell housing nuts and the special studs.

Lower the gearbox safely, clean any debris from the bell housing, check for oil leaks and the condition of the input shaft bearing and the shaft itself for damage.

Unclip the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) extension pipe – useful for a future blanking plug – unbolt and remove the CSC, carefully noting the gearbox seal (Fig 5) condition.

Refit the new CSC, taking care not to compress it prior to fitment, and use the original or new and correct bolts – don’t be tempted to replace them with something ‘similar’! Once completed, fit the new extension pipe, making sure the clips locate correctly.

Remove the clutch and test the dual mass flywheel (DMF) to see if it can be re-used or not. The maximum values for rock and free play can be found on the REPXPERT website or app.

This vehicle is fitted with a self-adjusting clutch (SAC), so the clutch needs to be fitted with the LuK special SAC tool to pre-compress the pressure plate assembly to the DMF – the tool kit also contains an alignment tool. Not using the tool is a common cause of clutch judder or premature de-adjustment, which can lead to the job coming back.

Gearbox replacement is the reverse of removal and clutch bleeding is straightforward.

Information on Schaeffler products, fitting instructions, labour times and more can be found on the REPXPERT garage portal – www.repxpert.co.uk – the REPXPERT app, or by calling the Schaeffler REPXPERT hotline on (+44) 1432 264264.

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